Extension Master Naturalists Offer Forest Therapy Experiences to Help with Stress Relief

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Photo by Stacey Remick-Simkins

What’s shinrin-yoku, you might ask?

Christie Culliton has written a wonderfully informative article about the Japanese art of forest bathing – or taking in your natural surroundings using the five senses to help reduce stress levels.

Autumn is the perfect time to get out and enjoy the changing leaf colors and unplug with a shinrin-yoku experience in your local forest.

Virginia Cooperative Extension trains and supports 30 Virginia Master Naturalist chapters around the state who lead forest bathing experiences as one of their many volunteer programs, in addition to providing education, outreach, and service to benefit natural areas and natural resources in their communities.

Learn more through Extension’s publication about shinrin-yoku and stress reduction. Give yourself a five-minute forest therapy break with this video explaining more about shinrin-yoku.

Contact your local Master Naturalist Program to find out if forest bathing experiences are offered in your area.

 

Protect The Wildlife You Attract

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Photo and article: Plant NOVA Natives

Market demand for native plants in our region has clearly risen in the past ten years. This is a very positive trend, fueled by an increased awareness of the benefits that native plants offer. It is also a sheer delight to see wildlife respond to our efforts, enjoying the food and shelter that a healthier environment offers.

However, a word of caution is in order. Elements of the landscape may pose serious hazards to the very wildlife that we’ve attracted. Are we drawing them closer, only to have them harmed by an avoidable threat to their health and wellbeing? In some cases, the answer is clearly yes. Here are some suggestions for identifying and addressing some of the more common threats.

Cats: The biggest threat to birds is habitat loss, but the second biggest is domestic cats. When allowed outdoors, they devastate populations not only of birds – an estimated 2.4 billion are killed by cats every year in the United States alone – but also of other small critters such as frogs, voles, and lizards. Domestic cats are an introduced species that have no place in our landscape.

Window strikes: The American Bird Conservancy estimates that window collisions kill up to 1 billion birds each year. The victims are not limited to migratory species striking large glass buildings in cities. They include our local backyard birds as they fly back and forth. The American Bird Conservancy has tested some inexpensive deterrents and discusses them on their website. One featured example is “Feather Friendly ®, adhesive dots that make the glass more visible to birds. Note that whatever product you choose, it is better to apply it to the exterior of the window. Internally-installed products are less effective when reflections on the glass are strong.

Outdoor lighting: Bright outdoor lighting is a life-threatening hazard to birds that migrate at night, disorienting them and disrupting their sense of direction to the point of exhaustion and death. Outdoor lighting also devastates fireflies, moths, and other nocturnal animals. As much as possible, turn off outdoor lighting, especially during peak migration periods (March 1 to June 15 and August 15 to November 30). Before 11 pm, turn off any lighting that may be directed upward, or at least consider adding a down-shield. Swap out light bulbs for warm spectrum LED (3000 K or less) to make them less attractive to insects.

Mosquito spraying: It is impossible to spray for mosquitoes without killing other insects as well, including bees, butterflies, caterpillars, ladybugs, and dragonflies. The residual effects of the pesticide will last for weeks, yet the intended effect is rather short lived, as mosquitoes can fly up to 2 miles and quickly repopulate the treated areas. Several less harmful tactics can keep them at bay. Mosquitoes are weak fliers, so turn on an electric fan on your deck to blow them away. Use mosquito repellents such as DEET. Most importantly, search your property for places that accumulate water where mosquitoes can breed, such as buckets, toys, downspouts, or the saucers under plant pots.

Rat poison: Rat poison is designed to smell and taste good to mice and rats, but it can be just as appealing to other mammals as well. Even if placed inside, the poison can be carried outside by the mice and rats to where other wild animals can find it. But most cases of wildlife poisoning do not occur from direct consumption. Rather, poisoning occurs secondarily when a raptor eats a poisoned animal. The poison then accumulates in the raptor’s body, leading to the same kind of slow and agonizing death for the bird as it does for the mammal. More environmentally-friendly ways to keep rats and mice out of your home include sealing all entry points, securing food resources such as birdseed, pet food, and trash, making sure rodent nesting materials such as shredded paper or fabric are not available, or adding nest boxes for raptors to attract them to your yard. One barn owl can consume a thousand mice in a year, and that is a conservative estimate.

Nandina berries: Nandina is native to eastern Asia but has been a landscaping favorite across our region for a long time, mostly due to the profuse red berries it produces in late fall that persist through winter. Nandina berries, however, contain cyanide and other alkaloids that are deadly to birds when consumed in large volumes. There are many beautiful native substitutes for the invasive nandina, such as Winterberry and Red Chokeberry.

The Northern Virgina Bird Alliance website has more details on avoiding these and other human-made hazards.

As always, awareness is everything. When viewed more holistically, native plants are one piece in the larger puzzle of ecosystem restoration. Other factors complete the picture, including soil health, animals, favorable climate conditions, and fewer environmental risks, with each piece interdependent upon the other.

Enjoy the Birds and Keep ‘em Safe – Article Virginia Department of Wildlife Resources

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Photo courtesy Shutterstock.

 

Responsible bird feeding is a fun way to observe and learn about birds. There are a few things to watch out for to be sure you’re feeding wild birds in a way that is safe for the birds and for you. The following suggested best practices are provided to help you enjoy feeding wild birds while avoiding issues that can negatively impact birds and other wildlife. In some cases, issues may arise that require you to stop feeding wild birds until the issues are resolved.

Photo by Katie Martin – DWR

Please click here for important information on the importance of safe bird feeding, creating natural, sustainable habitats beyond the feeder, and some valuable how-to information for safe bird feeding.

“Keystone” Plants for Fall Gardens

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Article and photos by Plant NOVA Natives

It’s fall, and most healthy plants are looking rather spent as they go dormant for the winter. But some natives are happily blooming away for the first time this growing season, catching your eye with their intense colors and soothing away year-end gardening blues.

Asters and goldenrods are usually the stars of this show, providing a beautiful color contrast with each other when planted together. Aside from their beautiful, long-lasting blooms, they are both “keystone” native plants, so named because they feed the most species of insects, butterflies, birds, and other animals in our area. Along with several other keystone plants and trees, asters and goldenrods are wildlife engines that support many local ecosystems. They are obvious choices for fall gardens.

It is encouraging if not inspiring to know that if you have access to an empty outdoor potting container or a bit of open ground, you can plant a keystone species and … help reinstitute the biodiversity of the continent!  Spend ten minutes on a sunny afternoon watching what visits the blooms on your aster or goldenrod, and you will absolutely believe your efforts have made a difference.

Here are some suggestions for asters and goldenrods to add to your garden.

Asters
Aromatic Aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium)
Aromatic Aster has emerged in recent years as a fall gardening favorite and a great substitute for non-native mums. In the wild, aromatic aster likes dry rocky outcroppings and is considered uncommon if not rare in the Piedmont. But it has become very popular among growers these days and is rather easy to find.  It is a vigorous, drought-tolerant plant that does as well in a pot as it does in the ground. Aromatic Aster gets its name from its leaves which release a balsam-like smell when crushed, which is pleasant to us and repulsive to deer. As such, the plant is very deer resistant. The plant is naturally mounded in shape and rather well behaved, especially if pruned. It is recommended not to prune an aster during its first year, but older plants respond well to a trim of approximately 1/3 of the stem length in June or July to help maximize flower production in the fall and reduce floppiness.
New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae)
New England aster has a sturdy appearance and can grow up to six feet or more. After the first year, it can be pruned down to ½ of its stem length in June. You can also pinch back stem tips every few weeks during the winter and prune its outer stems a bit more than its inner stems to create more of a mounded shape. Monarch butterflies are particularly attracted to it as they stock up for their migration to Mexico for the winter. New England Aster is a host plant for the Pearl Crescent butterfly, one of the most common butterflies across America.
Calico Aster (Symphyotrichum laterifolium)
Calico Aster can reach a height of 1-4 feet and is also a late September bloomer, producing small, daisy-like white flower heads that gradually turn to purplish red. Flowers on one plant include both colors at the same time, which is how the plant gets its name. It is very delicate and airy in appearance when blooming, but it can be mistaken for a weed in mid-summer. Flowers attract many bees, while the leaves host the larva of the Silvery Checkerspot and Pearl Crescent butterflies. Plant Calico Aster near New England Aster or Aromatic Aster for a nice structural contrast.

Goldenrods for the Garden

There are over 40 species of goldenrod native to Virginia, most of them producing very long-lasting blooms from late summer to fall which are of special value to native bees and many other little pollinators.
Wrinkle-leaf Goldenrod (Solidago rugosa) 
Wrinkle-leaf Goldenrod, also known as Rough-leaved Goldenrod or Rough-stemmed Goldenrod, is a garden favorite and rather easy to find in native plant and commercial garden centers. It features 2-5 feet long graceful arching stems that are densely loaded with small yellow flowers. In nature you will see the plant growing in large masses in open fields, but it also thrives in gardens as that get plenty of sunlight. Plant it near some blue asters for color contrast, and enjoy the result.
Zigzag Goldenrod (Solidago flexicaulis)
Zigzag Goldenrod, also known as Broadleaf Goldenrod, does not require as much sun as Wrinkle-leaf Goldenrod. It is common in local woodland settings and easy to spot with its characteristic erect, somewhat zig-zag stems that can grow from 1-3 feet tall. In addition, many backyard birds such as sparrows, goldfinches, chickadees, and wrens love to eat its seeds. Zigzag Goldenrod is an easy-care, beautiful, and beneficial choice for your fall garden, requiring little attention once it is established.
Goldenrods have been saddled with a bad reputation by people who mistakenly blame them for their allergy symptoms. It is actually ragwort species that cause the fall sneezing. As garden plants, some species of Goldenrod such as Tall Goldenrod (Solidago altissima) can be overexuberant in the garden or look weedy. Others, though, are the perfect plant to wrap up the season, both for their color and for their contribution to our struggling local ecosystem. For more information about these and other native plants, see the Plant NOVA Natives website.

 

Native Vines for Hummingbirds and Beauty

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Photo: Plant NOVA Natives

Native vines can be terrific additions to your landscape. The most popular one, Coral Honeysuckle, is a hummingbird magnet!

Unlike the non-native invasive vines that we see everywhere killing trees, our native vines seldom hurt them. They co-evolved with our trees and are important members of the ecosystem, attracting numerous and diverse populations of pollinators with their plentiful nectar, feeding many birds from late summer into the winter with their fruit, and hosting the caterpillar larvae of several butterflies and moths.

Their flowers are long blooming, showy, profuse, and often fragrant and remarkably complex. It is their nature to reach for a climbing surface and grow upon it rapidly, which puts their flowering and foliage beauty on full and glorious display.

Native vines grow well in average soil and in dry or moist conditions and are generally easy to cultivate. Some can be a nuisance due to their exuberant growth, but they can all be trained to climb walls, arches, fences, arbors, or trellises, or pruned or sheared for containment. Once trained, they add coverage, privacy, and striking beauty to any space.

Here are five native vines you can plant and enjoy for years to come.

Coral Honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens)

Coral Honeysuckle, whose botanical name refers to its evergreen habit, is the hands-down favorite of the native vines for garden spaces and is the official wildflower of Fairfax County. It blooms profusely in the spring then continues to bloom all the way up to November. The hummingbirds in your neighborhood will visit it repeatedly throughout the day.

Crossvine (Bignonia capreolata)

Crossvine is semi-evergreen with stunning abundant blooms and claws at the end of its tendrils allowing it to cling to stone, brick, pergolas, and fences without support. Its green leaves turn purple in the fall. Hummingbirds also visit this plant during its May bloom time.

Virgin’s Bower (Clematis virginiana)

Virgin’s Bower is a fast grower and late bloomer with flowers turning to showy sprays of silky seeds in late summer. It climbs via twisted stems so needs something to wrap itself around to grow such as shrubs, trees, a fence or a trellis. Be careful to distinguish this from Sweet Autumn Clematis (Clematis ternifolia), a highly invasive plant that is sold in conventional garden centers.

Yellow Passionflower (Passiflora lutea)

Yellow Passionflower has interesting leaves and delicate, fragrant flowers that bloom in mid-summer. It is considered easy to control, train, and contain.

Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia)

While it is primarily prized in the landscape for its brilliant red-burgundy fall foliage, Virginia Creeper is a generous provider of abundant food for hundreds of insects, birds, and other animals and a meaningful addition to the landscape.

Some native vines are a little too exuberant for most people’s gardens but are great additions to more naturalized areas. Purple Passionflower, Maypop (Passiflora incarnata) for example, is a beautiful nuisance when it pops up everywhere. The name Maypop comes from the loud “pop” the fruit makes when crushed. Trumpet Creeper (Campsis radicans) is another example. Its flowers are flamboyant and a magnet for hummingbirds, but it is a famously vigorous grower that scrambles over anything it can reach with aerial rootlets that will damage any wood, brick or stone it touches. It is also considered a nuisance.

Finally, there is one notable vine that is native in Virginia but not Northern Virginia: American Wisteria (Wisteria frutescens). Widely sold in conventional garden centers, it has become the substitute for the highly invasive Asian wisterias which are wreaking havoc on our ecosystem, smothering trees and tearing them limb from limb.

For more information on all of these native vines, you can visit www.plantnovanatives.org/vines or visit our native plant guide.

Supporting Your Garden Through Heat and Drought

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Photo and article by Plant NOVA Natives

We all know the climate is getting hotter. The week of July 22 included the world’s two hottest days in recorded history. At the same time, the average annual rainfall in Virginia has risen, as a warmer atmosphere tends to hold more moisture. Since it also creates more violent storms, the water runs off faster, a problem compounded by periods of drought. We can only anticipate more heat and more drought in the future.

These changes have not gone unnoticed by local gardeners. Some plants which had always seemed hardy are now struggling in the heat. We see some so-called “sun loving” plants wilting in the heat of direct sun and never fully recovering. We are not sure what “sun loving” really means at this point. How much direct sun do plants “love” when it’s 95 degrees?

Most plants require supplemental watering when newly planted, but this year even well-established and well-sited plants are struggling in the heat and drought. Native plants have the advantage of being adapted to our local conditions, but what happens when those conditions change? We asked our native plant gardeners to share observations about plants that normally tolerate full sun conditions. Here are some of their answers.

  • Some redbuds in full sun that were fine in previous years are now turning brown, which makes sense as it is an understory species accustomed to at least some shade.
  • Coral Honeysuckle is doing fine in full sun if the roots are shaded, which also mimics how the vine behaves in nature as it climbs up trees.
  • Some Virgina Sweetspire shrubs are wilting under the full force of the afternoon sun.
  • Green-and-gold seems to tolerate full sun or dry soil but not both. The same is true of Golden Ragwort.
  • The shrubs Arrowwood and Black-haw viburnums, Spicebush, and Bladdernut seem unfazed.
  • Examples of perennials and grasses that are holding up well despite the stress include asters, goldenrods, Tickseed Coreopsis, Butterfly Weed, Black-eyed Susan, Wild Petunia and Switchgrass. The plants may not grow as tall, though, when stressed.

Going forward, here are some gardening strategies to consider.

Shop for Drought-Resistant Plants: We can’t control the climate, but if we don’t want to spend the rest of our lives watering, we will shop more carefully for plants that tolerate heat and drought. A bit more research on the plant than the information provided by the plant label can pay off.

Consider Nature’s Place: Where plants are found in nature is a clue to where we should plant them. If they naturally grow in cooler, shadier, or wetter wild settings, they are likely to require more supplemental watering in a dryer, hotter garden. There are exceptions, though: some plants that grow in marshes, such as Buttonbush and Swamp Rose Mallow, do surprisingly well in compacted, clay soil.

Monitor Ground Moisture: Too much water can kill a plant as effectively as too little, so it is important to estimate the moisture level before watering. If sticking your finger into the ground doesn’t appeal, a moisture meter can be very handy and occasionally deliver some big surprises, since water moves down into even slight depressions.

Use Mulch: Two or three inches of hardwood or leaf mulch will cool the soil and reduce evaporation. However, too thick a layer can become a water barrier and actually dry out the bed. Wood chip mulch is the preferred choice under trees because water flows through it more easily. Fallen leaves are nature’s solution and can do the job in a garden bed with the additional benefit of providing habitat for fireflies and amphibians.

Plant Green Mulch: If you use living plants as a kind of green mulch, that can also cool and moisten the soil, though competition for water between plants needs to be considered.

Plant More Trees: With temperatures rising, shade gardens are the gardens of the future. Just remember that you should always pull turf grass away from tree trunks out to the drip line, since the roots of trees are quite shallow and have trouble competing with turf for water and nutrients.

Many answers to your questions can be found in the Plant NOVA Natives online search app, which we constantly update as more information comes in. If you have additional observations or strategies to contribute, please send them to [email protected].

 

A Community Effort: Banding Osprey in Colonial Beach

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Cover Photo: Joanie Millward, FMN Peter Mecca Connecting with a raptor.

Article by FMN Peter Mecca – Educator, Scientist and Lifelong learner

As an educator and scientist, I welcome opportunities to interact with all forms of life on Earth. Whether it’s helping to raise trout in Virginia or tagging leatherback turtles in Puerto Rico, my work with wildlife strengthens my passion to learn and care for our natural resources.  As a lifelong learner, I believe it’s important to acquire new knowledge and skills, and to use that information to promote a healthy planet for all who share this space. 

 

I am an adjunct biology professor at the University of Maryland’s Global Campus. Formerly, I was a university professor of science education and biology, a science coordinator for Defense Department schools, and a high school science teacher. I hold a BS in Secondary Education-Biology, an MA in Environmental Biology, and a PhD in Curriculum & Instruction, and Ecology. I am also a Virginia Master Naturalist in the Fairfax County Chapter.

 

While in Colonial Beach, Virginia, this spring, I met Joanie Millward, president of the Virginia Osprey Foundation, and her husband Barry. We discovered a common interest in natural resource conservation and community science. As Joanie and Barry described their involvement with the Virginia Osprey Foundation, I mentioned that I was a naturalist and environmental biologist, and often do volunteer work on events similar to those supported by the foundation. When they extended an invitation to participate in the 3rd Annual Osprey Chick Banding on June 25, I immediately accepted the invitation. Under authority and direction of the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) and U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS), the banding is led and conducted by Ken Smith, a federally permitted raptor bander. 

 

Bird banding is a valuable process in the study and conservation of the approximately 1,270 bird species that exist in the United States. According to the Bird Banding Laboratory at the USGS, bird banding data are useful in scientific research and management, as well as conservation projects. Individual identification of birds allows for study of dispersal and migration, behavior and social structure, life-span and survival rate, reproductive success, and population growth.

 

Ospreys are abundant in Colonial Beach during the spring and summer seasons. There are more than 50 nesting platforms — human constructed structures — and tree nests in its 2.6-square-mile area. As ospreys return from their wintering grounds in late February and early March, the sky is filled with their presence and songs. Their arrival produces excitement and signals the start of spring and summer in Colonial Beach. Residents share their enthusiasm with one another as they witness these magnificent raptors bringing sticks and other objects to their nests, preparing a place to raise a new clutch of chicks.

Photo: Joanie Millward, Ken Smith and FMN Peter Mecca banding a 4-week-old chick.

On June 25, I joined Joanie, Barry, and Ken on visits to five nests where we banded a total of 12 chicks. Since the nests were high above ground, Todd Dalton, a local resident who works for Dominion Energy and is authorized to use the company bucket truck, was responsible for the removal and return of the chicks to and from the nest. Ken showed the volunteers how to handle each chick. I was lucky to participate twice. As I held a chick, Ken would carefully get a band, supplied to him by USGS with a USFW number, size and attach it to the right leg of the bird. Although the band can be attached to either leg, Ken prefers the right. While Ken did the banding, I securely and safely held the chick while paying attention to its behavior. If the chick were to get anxious, I’d place a covering over its head to block vision. This action helps to calm the bird. After the bird was banded, I handed the chick back to Ken, who placed it into a cloth bag and got ready for the next. An osprey usually has two to three chicks at a time, so we had to tag all before Todd could return them to the nest. Given that the chicks ranged in age from four to six weeks, I was surprised as to how docile they were. They basically let us do our job. The mom, on the other hand, was not happy. She constantly tried to intimidate Todd while he was removing and returning the chicks. Fortunately, the adult osprey stayed out of reach of Todd. Once the chicks were returned, it usually took about 10 to 15 minutes for the adults to return to the nest. I suppose they wanted to make sure the humans were out of the area.  

Photo: FMN Peter Mecca, Todd Dalton discovers these items in two nests.

As we went from nest to nest, local residents would come out of their homes and inquire about our work. All expressed sincere interest and thanked us for our efforts. Some of the residents volunteered to hold a chick while Ken administered a band. A Colonial Beach police officer, on patrol, also stopped to volunteer. 

I am so thrilled about what I did and what I observed in this town. The osprey banding is an example of community science in action. Residents value osprey and are willing to help protect them. I will continue to assist with banding osprey as well as support the efforts of the Virginia Osprey Foundation. Wherever you are in the Commonwealth, I encourage you to connect and engage with nature. Whether its stream monitoring, stream cleanups or bird banding, value our planet and take action.

 

Being a VMN Volunteer – Heat and Air Quality Concerns

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Image:  New particulate pollution Air Quality Index, Virginia Department of Environmental Quality

Many VMN volunteers spend a lot of time being active outdoors, as you would expect! Part of the risk management guidelines involve keeping yourself and others safe by paying attention to the weather forecast. At this time of year, both extreme heat and air quality can be concerns. 

  • Extreme Heat – If you must be outdoors in hot weather, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention recommends that you stay hydrated, cut down on exercise, rest often in the shade, and protect yourself with a hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen. CDC Extreme Heat website and resources
  • Air Quality – Learn to look up the Air Quality Index. Sometimes you can find it in a regular weather app, but AirNow.gov is a good source of information as well. Learn what the colors mean, and be aware that if it is going to be a red day (or possibly even an orange day, depending on the activity), it may be wise to cancel your outdoor VMN activities, particularly if they involve a lot of physical activity or people who are in more sensitive groups. 

Keep in mind that you have to make the decision on whether it is safe for you to participate in an event based on the weather. You may be in a sensitive group when it comes to heat or air quality, and therefore have to cancel plans when someone else might feel fine about being outdoors. That’s okay! We want you to make the right decision for you, and, if you are leading an event for others, to keep their safety in mind as well.

Good Hedges Make Good Neighbors

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Article and photo by Plant NOVA Natives

Dense plantings between properties are a valuable amenity, so much so that they are mandated for many building projects. A mixed hedge consisting of native plant species has the added value of supporting the songbirds in our communities. Privacy screens don’t always work out as planned, though, so here are a few considerations for creating and maintaining them.

Rows of identical evergreen trees or shrubs have been the conventional choice for screening. A strong case can be made, however, for mixing it up a bit. Ten plants of the same species may look symmetrical initially, but nature has a way of laughing at symmetry. Small variations in sunlight and moisture can cause the plants to grow at different rates. In the case of shrubs, this problem can be countered for a while by shearing them all to the same height. But it’s not a lot of fun to be standing on a ladder to shear plants, and eventually plants tend to rebel at being chopped back and start to look tired or leggy. A more serious problem occurs when one of them dies, leaving a hole in the screening, or worse, when a disease spreads from plant to plant, as can easily happen to a monoculture.

By contrast, a screen that consists of a variety of native plants – chosen because their natural sizes are appropriate for the situation – can do the job while reducing maintenance needs. As an important bonus, native trees and shrubs provide not only nesting sites for songbirds but also food for both the adults and the nestlings, unlike plants that evolved elsewhere and do little to support the local ecosystem. A list of native plants that are suitable for screening can be found on the Plant NOVA Natives website.

Sometimes people find themselves in a hurry to screen off an undesirable view and are facing the problem of having to wait for trees and shrubs to grow high enough. A better solution may be to block the view right away with a lattice and cover it with Coral Honeysuckle or Crossvine. Both of these evergreen native vines have colorful blooms that attract hummingbirds..

Unfortunately, our buffer areas between properties have become a prime target for invasive plant species, which can seriously degrade a site before the landowner realizes something is wrong. If screening was mandated in the development process, local ordinances require that the plants be maintained in good health and replaced if they die. The most immediate threat is posed by invasive vines such as Japanese Honeysuckle or Asian Wisteria which strangle and smother trees and shrubs. A nice screening that was an amenity is now a derelict eyesore and an invitation to dumping. Invasive trees such as Callery Pear crowd out the native trees, and invasive shrubs such as Japanese Barberry, Nandina, and Burning Bush prevent tree seedlings from growing. The sooner these plants are recognized and dealt with, the easier and less expensive it will be to preserve the beauty of our homes and communities. You can learn more about that on the invasives management page of the Plant NOVA Natives website.

 

Does Your Tree Company Speak for the Trees? Getting Help from the Pros

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Photo: Sara Holtz, tree with “mulch volcano”

Article by Cindy Speas, Chair of the Fairfax County Tree Commission

I am frequently asked “What service do you use for advice about the health of your trees?” I’m glad to get the question, because often the expertise needed for lawn and landscape care is not the same service needed to evaluate the health of trees, which is a whole science unto itself. My response is always that you need a good arborist, and not every tree service has one on staff. Some tree care companies do provide a free arborist consultation—but you still must analyze the wide range of recommendations you will get. One strategy would be to hire an independent arborist first, followed by free arborist consultations from reputable tree service companies.

How can you find a qualified professional to care for your trees? Go to PlantNOVATrees for information on choosing someone to work with. Call several services, ask if they have an ISA certified arborist on staff and what the fee is for a consultation (if any). Get recommendations from those you know whose trees are healthy and well-maintained. For more details read Virginia Cooperative Extension’s excellent publication on hiring an arborist.

You will be in a better position to evaluate the arborist’s advice if you know some of the best management practices in tree maintenance and care before you have a consultation. Here are some telltale recommendations that a good arborist would NEVER MAKE:

  1. That you should top your tree (take off the ends of most or all of the branches)

  2. That you should preventatively spray your tree canopy with herbicides to kill any bugs (“pests”) that might be there

  3. That you should trim out all the dead wood that can be seen

  4. That you should trim living branches in a way that leaves a part of the branch (spur) on the tree

  5. That you should build up mulch in a “volcano” shape around the base of the tree trunk to hold in water or discourage pests

  6. That you should frequently irrigate your trees using a sprinkler.

In fact:

  1. You should NEVER top your trees—this will hasten their death.

  2. You should ONLY use foliar herbicidal spray on your tree if there is clear evidence of a killer pest, and not just one that chews on the leaves a bit. A “preventative” spray will kill pollinators and the other beneficial insects that live in your trees and that attract songbirds to your yard. Spraying can also be harmful to overall tree and soil health.

  3. You should ONLY remove dead wood that is hazardous to humans or property. Removing all the observed dead wood does not improve the health of any tree.

  4. You should NEVER leave a branch spur (nor cut a branch flush to the trunk), because the tree cannot heal those wounds. Always remove branches right between the collar and the tree trunk so the wound can heal. It is preferable not to trim living branches if at all possible.

  5. You should NEVER allow mulch to be “volcanoed” around the base of any tree—volcanoing encourages roots to grow above ground into the mulch and invites fungi and tree pests.

  6. You should NEVER overwater your trees—if drought conditions suggest an occasional thorough watering, you should place a hose at various points around the root zone for a long, slow drink.

      Ask the arborist for the science behind his or her recommendations—if you are told you have pests, ask how the arborist diagnosed that. If you are told the trees need fertilizing, ask how and why the arborist believes that is a good strategy. If the responses aren’t based on good scientific evidence, then you might not have the best arborist for your trees. If an answer doesn’t seem exactly right, is too costly, or requires a signed annual contract including all their recommendations before doing the work that you actually want, get a second or third arborist’s opinion. You’d do that for your health and that of your family, so why not also do that for the health of your trees?